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Monday, October 24, 2016

New Jewels From Wallace Chan, Reza and Otto Jakob At TEFAF New York


In recent years Wallace Chan has increased his participation at international art fairs. Nearly as big a story as the jewels he exhibits are the well-heeled collectors from Hong Kong and China who fly to various parts of the world specifically to support his efforts. TEFAF New York Fall was no different. 

Blue sapphire ring owned by avid collector of Wallace Chan’s works, Lynn Hsieh, a Hong Kong business woman, socialite and former Taiwanese child movie star. She came from Hong Kong to view Chan’s latest exhibition at the TEFAF New York Fall art fair. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

During the press and VIP preview on Friday I met Lynn Hsieh. In addition to being an avid collector of Wallace Chan’s jewels, she is a Hong Kong business woman, socialite and former Taiwanese child movie star. She said she came to both support the artist and possibly add to her collection. She was wearing a ring and matching earrings made of large cabochon blue sapphires highlighted by yellow diamonds, miniature natural pearls and lapis lazuli. 

Matching blue sapphire ring owned by Lynn Hsieh, who came from Hong Kong to view Chan’s latest exhibition at the TEFAF New York Fall art fair. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Among Chan’s new pieces he brought to the fair is “A Tale of Two Dragons,” a pair of brooches being sold as a set made primarily of a white jade dragon belt hook from china’s Qianlong Period (1736-1795); with emerald, ruby, sapphire, pink sapphire and fancy colored diamonds.

Tale of Two Dragons brooches by Wallace Chan

The white jade was split in two and elaborately carved with titanium and covered with colorful precious gems to create mirror images of a mother and father raising a son and daughter. 

The reverse of the Tale of Two Dragons Brooch shown at TEFAF New York Fall.  Photo by Anthony DeMarco

While Chan is noted for his elaborate artistry and complicated techniques, he also lets particular gems stand largely on their own. This includes another one of his new pieces, the “Night of Violet,” a 116.2-carat amethyst faceted in a pillow-like display on a ring (video at top of the page). The presentation seems simplistic but there is complexity within the piece. Although mounted on titanium, the gem is mysteriously set on the ring without a visible metal claw. The gem is flanked by two triangle-shaped amethysts. The three gems are bordered by rows of yellow and white diamonds. 

A ruby is set at the back of the “Night of Violet” ring, which Chan calls the eye of a dragon, a token of love, power and wisdom. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Parisian jeweler, Reza, formerly Alexandre Reza, brought new pigeon blood ruby pieces to TEFAF, led by chandelier earrings. Another item of note was a large, elaborate emerald and yellow gold necklace created by the jewelry house in 1980. 

Earrings by Reza feature 34 pebble pigeon blood rubies weighing 35.92 carats, 84 princess cut diamonds weighing 2.19 carats and 148 marquise-cut diamonds weighing 8.69 carats. Set on white polished gold

German jeweler Otto Jakob introduced colorful miniature jewelry creations, including “Bailaoras” earrings made of yellow, rose and white gold, diamonds and vitreous enamel, made by fusing powdered glass to gold by firing. This technique and polishing createsan intense red glow to the poppy feathers. An articulated chain of black diamonds leads to a rose gold capsule with a crown of white gold that is micro pavĂ©-set. 

Emerald and yellow gold necklace created by Reza in 1980. Photo by
Anthony DeMarco

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Otto Jakob's “Bailaoras” earrings made of yellow, rose and white gold, diamonds and vitreous enamel. Photo by Anthony DeMarco